Got the discs on last night, hubs and bearing are in and on with new seals. Started bleeding the brakes, but I haven’t got all the air out yet. Turns out that my new studs, which I pressed in using the vice, weren’t that straight, so they hung up on the disk, although I did manage to beat them on in the end.
I made a start last night fitting the disc brake kit. I hit a slight stumbing block in the terms of the brake pipe, my flexies are metric and the kit comes with a standard imperial end, so I think I shall have to re-use the old pipes. I imagine they’re the same at the brake caliper end. I found that the old pipes will work just fine:
I decided to bite the bullet today and crack on with the disc brake conversion. Having painted the new parts it was time to begin.
On the way back from Dorchester I thought I would check out the state of the two fords on Gascoyne Lane, the river level is up pretty high. I didn’t drive through either ford as I imagined they were plenty deep enough to drown my Land Rover.
Here are some pictures and a video of the bits I got from Zeus: Then I decided I should paint…
I put the floor and transmission tunnel back in, and then the front prop. And lastly the front prop:
I have been chasing this misfire vibration problem all around, having said I’d be ripping the gearbox out I started. I got the interior floor pan etc removed and front prop off. Then I took the rear prop off… Well, I checked both prop shafts when this issue first showed itself, I imagined this is what it would be, but they seemed fine, hence going down the paths I did. I noticed that there is a rubber seal which was, I guess, stopping the metal and metal action when I manually turned the prop and stopped it from clunking. So either way, new prop ordered and fitted tonight. I then dropped the floor back in and refitted the steering wheel, hand break mechanism and bits so that it’s drivable for a test. This may not be issue, but I hope it is.
The gearbox extraction has commenced. I was thinking I’d remove the rear prop and go for a drive on the front axle only, but decided that pointless. Since if it were the diff surely it would cause issues at any time it was udner load, not just certain gears and rev ranges. So out comes the gearbox. I’ve got the lamp on the extension cord hanging by the dash for decent light.
Dorset Land Rover Club ran a Pay and Play at a site in Crossways. I got to go at member price because they have an agreement with Woolbridge. Then i and got stuck in a deep bit of water. I was pulled out and went off again having fun. Though i still have the issue and am not really any the wiser as to what it is. Though i think i blame the gearbox, so will be pulling that out next. Though i might remove the rear prop shaft first fo rule out the rear diff.
Out with the new and in with the old, or perhaps i should say, out with the modern and in with the original. I’m currently of the thinking that the electronic ignition set up the cause of all this fuss. The kits doesn’t have a great name for reliability. I have become aware of this since going that route and am now perhaps experiencing this issue first hand. First off I brought the Land Rover into the garage soaking wet. Then I dried the drivers side wing so that I could lean on it without getting wet. Fired it up and it ran, so nothing was disaterously wrong, now it just needs a road test. Although before I do that, I shall buy and fit a new coil, just to be certain. Also I think the coil I have installed to designed to match the electrionic ignition system, and I […]
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