Fitted the new UJ the other day. Just need to refit the prop now.
This is the stately home that is now a hotel where my Sister in law will be getting married next week. The pictures don’t reveal much, just nice images.
I have been able to hear that something was not right for a while now, the other day I investigated further and found that a UJ was no longer serviceable.
Last night I borrowed a friends 3D printer. Today I set it up, levelled the table and inserted the filament. Had the SD card with the software not been corrupted, I’d likely be printing something now.
I have replaced my old rusting steel inner wing with a secondhand sheet of aluminium.
I pinched some aluminium boxes out of a skip, sliced them up and used this sheet aluminium to make this inner wing. I traced around my old one, made it longer, so protect the bulkhead foot well better and boom. The above was born, recycled.
I have come up with a plan for the fiddle brake leavers arrangement.
Today I tested out putting some 2″ timber under the seat to see what it’s like. I’ve felt that the seat was a touch low for some time (Months) now. Then decided that if I was going to raise the base that the back will have to change. I want to make the seat back mow shallow to fit tighter against the rear bulkhead, giving me more leg room.
I decided that since I have a spare wheel, I should probably carry it. Due to my using Weller 8 spoke type rims the nice fittings that Land Rover supply for the standard 600 R15 rims don’t work. So found some aluminium that I had laying about and put a 90º bend in it. Having ruined that piece of bar I thought I should finish off folding it. Having measured the wheel in place on the bonnet to find the positions of the remaining bends in the bar, I bent it without checking the hole locations or even considering how it was going to bolt down to the existing holes. Turns out it wouldn’t, the holes are too far apart and the heads of the bolts would interfere with the up rights. So now I have wound up with the other thicker bit of aluminium bolted onto to the folded bit to take the bolts and not clash with anything. having done all that I have to round all of the corners off because I’d consider that it going through a circular hole. Bit of a disaster all in all, but it works. What else did you want?
It wasn’t as bad a job as the title makes out! I purchased a brake bleeding “kit” from my local motor part factors:
the black rubber end that I’m holding in the above picture is a one way valve, so by simply sticking this on the bleed nipple it becomes a one person job. And it seemed to work very well. My brake peddle isn’t as positive as it could be, but then it wasn’t that positive before this exercise, so I’ve giving myself and the little hose the benefit of the doubt.
I am also fitting new dash LED illumination lights, as the previous LED’s were pretty dim even in very low light levels, so there was no hope of reading the dash when a car was coming towards me. I designed the black 3D printed part in the photo above, a friend kindly printed it for me in ABS. It fitted both the LED and the back of the dash perfectly, more by luck then judgement. It went in with the ease that I would expect genuine Land Rover branded parts to fit. Amazed, I was.
I managed to do the following in about 50 minutes;
- move Volvo from in front of the garage
- move Land Rover out of Garage
- jack the land rover up and put on axle stand
- remove wheel
- disassemble brake drum etc
- remove cylinder
- loose some brake fluid on floor
- find grease and rags
- fit new cylinder
- brake drum etc back on
- wheel back on
- move Land rover back in garage without pressing brake peddle
- move Volvo back in front of garage
Job done! Well not quite, don’t have any Dot 4 so can’t bleed the brakes yet.