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Finally I have all of the air duct in.
I have not yet sorted the air into cabin, and I think I will likely need to get the two printed parts re-printed, I will alter the right hand part to have an angle on the cabin discharge port. The left hand one needs a lot of work..
I purchased some drill bits from Ebay, very cheap ones, but it said that they were cobalt so I thought I’d give them a try for 2 and a bit quid.
In fairness the drills did have HSS stamped on them, but I suspect that stands for “Highly Soft Steel” in this instance, they’re almost certainly made from Chinesium. In future I’ll pay reasonable money to a reputable shop for decent drill bits. Lesson learned.
Today I have Sikaflex’d in the 3D printed “heart valve” component.
There is a bit of a gap at the bottom and given that both the base of the print and the bulk head are a little convex the two don’t fit together very well. Luckily I have plenty of Sikaflex and no fear of using it!
I have designed and a friend is printing for me some components for the air duct work that supplies hot air to the windscreen and cabin of the Land Rover.
And then inside will split up the air flow unevenly so that the driver side has far more air flow than the passenger side.
Went for a trip around the Devils Punch Bowl area last weekend.
We went across Frensham Common and then through a load of other lanes around the punch bowl and lastly up Wagoners Well.
At long last I can have hot air in the cab again. Not that it helps anyone other than the passenger at the moment as there is no dash or duct to direct the air my way or onto the windscreen for that matter. That’s the next job.
Today I assembled the bits, had to re-solder the wires to the resistor, they broke off at some point. Found some new nuts and bolts, but also used old stuff where I suspected it was imperial.
I have painted the heater blower now, not done a great job, but it’ll do, it’s far better than it was. At least now it’s build some pressure and move some more air. Reassembly is next, re-fix the resistor to the side of the housing and re-solder the wires to the fan motor.
I phoned Flag, who’s paint I used, to find out how it was going to do covering the Sika Flex brand sealant I had used to fill some of the gaps. The nice person I spoke with didn’t seem to understand the question very well, and given that the worse case seemed to be that the paint wont take to the polyurethane, I just went ahead and gave it a coat. Whats the worst that’ll happen?
After the voltage regulator failed I purchased second hand alternator for £30. I fitted this and it turns out that it works perfectly.
I also swapped out the Land Rover starter motor for a new one. It’s made a hell of a difference, I think in part because the old one was rusting from the inside out because of water ingress over 9 years.
I shot blasted the inside of the housing to clean it up and tacked the thing together. Ground back the rather rough welds. Stick welding thin sheet is difficult for me. In some places the sheet is so thin the shot blaster put holes in it.
