I decided that since I have a spare wheel, I should probably carry it. Due to my using Weller 8 spoke type rims the nice fittings that Land Rover supply for the standard 600 R15 rims don’t work. So found some aluminium that I had laying about and put a 90º bend in it. Having ruined that piece of bar I thought I should finish off folding it. Having measured the wheel in place on the bonnet to find the positions of the remaining bends in the bar, I bent it without checking the hole locations or even considering how it was going to bolt down to the existing holes. Turns out it wouldn’t, the holes are too far apart and the heads of the bolts would interfere with the up rights. So now I have wound up with the other thicker bit of aluminium bolted onto to the folded bit to take the bolts and not clash with anything. having done all that I have to round all of the corners off because I’d consider that it going through a circular hole. Bit of a disaster all in all, but it works. What else did you want?
I managed to do the following in about 50 minutes;
- move Volvo from in front of the garage
- move Land Rover out of Garage
- jack the land rover up and put on axle stand
- remove wheel
- disassemble brake drum etc
- remove cylinder
- loose some brake fluid on floor
- find grease and rags
- fit new cylinder
- brake drum etc back on
- wheel back on
- move Land rover back in garage without pressing brake peddle
- move Volvo back in front of garage
Job done! Well not quite, don’t have any Dot 4 so can’t bleed the brakes yet.
The Land Rover has been pulling to the left under braking recently, last Thursday it become bad enough that I thought I’d take a look, as it could no longer be written off as being dirt in the drum or something. Sure enough I have leaking wheel cylinder on the right front drum.
I also painted some of the more white parts and bare aluminium.
I reckon the aluminium dash is almost done, it’s not perfect, but who cares. Not me. I’ve installed two USB power ports, they’ll put out up to 10 amps from the PSU, so that’s future proofed for a few years yet. Still need to install a few more switches to do other stuff and make the bit for the right of the dash similar to the bit on the left of the dash.
Next is to fit better LED illumination for the dash. Shouldn’t be too hard.
I blew a fuse in the Land Rover, entirely my fault. A terminal broke off the back of the voltage regulator, so I replaced the feed to the instrument cluster by running a cable from my 12V stabilised power supply to the instruments instead. Unfortunately, this was all I did. I lift the existing supply cable behind the dash, still with broken terminal protruding from the insulated crimp. I imagine that this had touched something that was grounded/earthed and shorted out, blowing the fuse. At least I hope this is why the fuse blew.
Interesting how the wire has melted back where I guess it arced across the gap as the gap formed. Also interesting how it burned a line into the paper.
Finally I have all of the air duct in.
I have not yet sorted the air into cabin, and I think I will likely need to get the two printed parts re-printed, I will alter the right hand part to have an angle on the cabin discharge port. The left hand one needs a lot of work..
Today I have Sikaflex’d in the 3D printed “heart valve” component.
There is a bit of a gap at the bottom and given that both the base of the print and the bulk head are a little convex the two don’t fit together very well. Luckily I have plenty of Sikaflex and no fear of using it!
I have designed and a friend is printing for me some components for the air duct work that supplies hot air to the windscreen and cabin of the Land Rover.
And then inside will split up the air flow unevenly so that the driver side has far more air flow than the passenger side.
At long last I can have hot air in the cab again. Not that it helps anyone other than the passenger at the moment as there is no dash or duct to direct the air my way or onto the windscreen for that matter. That’s the next job.
Today I assembled the bits, had to re-solder the wires to the resistor, they broke off at some point. Found some new nuts and bolts, but also used old stuff where I suspected it was imperial.