I found i needed to close up the gap between the chassis leg and the bar, as there was a patch that sits proud of the chassis forward of this part. Yesterday I welded the first 40 mm or so in place on both sides then put the blow torch on it and bent it a little to close up the gap that can be seen in the picture.
I bought 2 meters of Ø16 mm mild steel round bar, cut it into 4 fairly equal lengths to be bent up into 4 hoops that can be welded to the Land Rover to make up recovery eyes. I’m not finished, but I’m getting there.
Used the old blow torch to heat them up and bend them by hand, be careful to hold the cold end…
Drilled a couple of Ø16 mm holes in the bit of angle that joined the chassis legs.
Had to file the weld on the left a little to let the loop pass through.
I have only welded the tops of one side and so still have the bottoms to do of this side and a little infill in places. That was a root weld and another in on top for good measure.
Okay cabin air a little posh, I’m on about the air intake for the hot/cold air into the land rover for the comfort of the passengers etc. This intake is the side of the wing, and it’s the same wing I dented a number of weeks back and also broke this plastic part.
I contemplated just ignoring it and living with it broken, but then I fixed the 3D printer. Then I modelled this, but minus the text as per the below pictures. I had a conversation with my dad and he suggested I didn’t need to duplicate what was there originally, so I hit on this:
I set it printed last night, but it didn’t come out well, so here goes again:
I have had no speedo for some time now, Hannah got me a cable for Christmas which I fitted some weeks or more ago. It didn’t work. I imagined that the cable was not into the gearbox properly. So today I took it out of at the gearbox end, only to find that it seemed to be right. So check I pulled it out of the speedo end so that I could see the cable end and drove a little, sure enough the cable was turning. So after some trying to get the speedo end to mate properly with the speedo a small piece of the old cable fell out of the speedo…
It works perfectly now, well, as perfectly as a 66% speed speedo can. The next job for the speedo is to work out how to capture the speed and increase it by 1.4x..
Finally sealed the passenger side windscreen pane.
My new phone has a wide angle lens on it, which is fun:
This small opening was there because I wasn’t sure whether I would build up a bit here to mount additional switched into or not:
But not needing any more switches I decided to run with:
And this is how it turned out:
I had to take the door off to drill the holes for the self tappers. This seemed a touch extreme, but I think was the best option. The other options were trying to drive the self tappers into the plastic without pilot holes using a stubby screw driver. This was going to be really hard work.
Today I fixed the issue that I caused yesterday. I rotated the different end half on the splints almost 90°, no wonder there was some vibration.
I stripped down the hand brake assembly and just made everything run again. Took the prop spins apart and greased it all, put it all back together. refitted it all. Great. Then while I had the help of a friend, I did the valve clearances.
While all of that was going on I had to remove the cover over the fuel tank, and found this growing:
I scrapped all of the mud and plant off. Wax-oiled the chassis in that area and generally made it inhospitable to plant life.
We took the land rover for a quick spin and noticed a vibration, couldn’t think what we might have done to cause this. Tonight it came to me that I had not paid any attention to what orientation I put the uj’s on the prop back together.. So that’s tomorrow’s job.
I found that my handbrake wasn’t much good on Tuesday, so I took a look and think I might have found the cause. I think I’ll put it down to mud ingress.
Now begins the clean up.